Cuban Aguardiente
Raw, unaged cane spirit: the rough ancestor of Cuban rum and the ration the mambises drank through the independence wars. It is what the Canchánchara was built to make drinkable, and it is close to impossible to buy outside Cuba.
Quick Facts
About Cuban Aguardiente
Flavour Profile
Primary Flavours
Tasting Notes
Green sugar cane and wet grass over an earthy, faintly vegetal base, with a raw spirit heat that no ageing has smoothed away.
What It Is
Aguardiente translates as burning water and names a category rather than a product: across Latin America and Iberia it refers to whatever the local raw spirit happens to be.
In Cuba it means cane. Fermented sugar cane juice or molasses, distilled and bottled without ageing or refinement, at a strength that made it cheap to produce and hard to drink. It is the spirit Cuban rum grew out of: the same raw material, before column distillation, filtration and barrel time turned it into the light, clean style that made the island's reputation in the twentieth century.
The Ration
The mambises who fought Spain through the independence wars from 1868 were provisioned, when they were provisioned at all, on this.
Honey and lime were both available in the countryside they were fighting through, and both made a hard spirit easier to take. The Canchánchara is what came of it, and it was understood at the time as medicine as much as morale, a claim that is not entirely unreasonable given the citrus involved. Trinidad de Cuba still pours it, still in a clay cup, and the drink survives as the oldest thing in the Cuban repertoire.
Finding It
Realistically, you will not, outside Cuba.
It is not an export product: what leaves the island under a Cuban label is rum, and aguardiente is domestic drinking. Some Latin American aguardientes are available in the UK, but the Colombian ones are anise-flavoured and a different proposition entirely. The practical answer for the Canchánchara is a raw, characterful white rum. A rhum agricole reads closest, because it is distilled from cane juice rather than molasses and keeps the grassy note. A clean, light Spanish-style white rum will make a pleasant drink and lose the point of it.
Against Cachaça
The two are close relatives and not the same thing.
Cachaça is Brazilian, legally defined, made from fresh cane juice, and bottled between 38 and 48 per cent. Cuban aguardiente has no such definition and is made from whatever the mill produced, juice or molasses depending on the operation. Cachaça is the better-documented and far more available spirit, and it is a reasonable substitute in the Canchánchara for the same reason agricole is: it keeps the green, grassy cane character that molasses-based rums lose.
Using Cuban Aguardiente
Usage
The base of the Canchánchara, where honey and lime were added specifically to make it palatable. Elsewhere it appears in Cuban country drinking rather than in the cocktail canon, because the canon was built on the refined rum that replaced it.
Top Tips
- Aguardiente is a word for any local spirit. This is the cane one, from Cuba.
- If you cannot find it, a characterful unaged white rum is the honest substitute.
- Rhum agricole is closer in spirit than a clean Spanish-style white rum.
Storage & Handling
Upright, cool and dark. It is unaged, high-proof and stable, and a bottle will outlast any reason you had for buying it.