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Brandy and Cognac guides9 min read

Cognac explained: VS, VSOP, XO, the six crus and the stills

Cognac is brandy with a fixed place, grape and method. BNIC, the trade body that monitors the name, lists the ages: at least two years for VS, four for VSOP and ten for XO. What follows covers those grades, the six crus, the double distillation, the 40% ABV minimum and how to drink cognac neat, over ice and in cocktails.

J
Jerry Can Spirits

1 November 2026 · Updated 1 November 2026

The guide

Start here.

Cognac is brandy from a delimited area around the Charente.

The names Cognac, Eau-de-vie de Cognac and Eau-de-vie des Charentes are restricted to wine spirit from grapes grown and distilled in a delimited area: almost all of Charente-Maritime, a large part of Charente and a few villages in Dordogne and Deux-Sèvres. A decree of 1 May 1909 first drew the boundary.

BNIC says the production rules sit in a specification recognised by French decree No. 2015-10 of 7 January 2015, updated on 8 November 2018, and that BNIC monitors compliance. GOV.UK’s register lists the name in category 4, wine spirit, one of the categories of Annex II to the retained Regulation (EC) 110/2008. What is brandy explains how wine spirit and brandy relate in British rules, and the cognac page covers the spirit.

Ugni Blanc supplies almost every vine, and the wine is thin on purpose.

BNIC puts Ugni Blanc in over 98% of the vineyards of the appellation. The grape comes originally from Tuscany, has high acidity and low sugar, and makes a wine of 8% to 9% ABV. BNIC also names Colombard, Folle Blanche, Montils, Sémillon and Folignan, and Folle Blanche is under 1% of plantings.

BNIC bans added sugar and sulphites during fermentation, so the fruit of the grape carries into the spirit. Harvest runs from mid-September to mid-October, and the grapes are pressed at once.

The stills run twice, and only the heart is kept.

The Charentais method is a batch double distillation. The first heat, the first chauffe, turns the wine into a first distillate called the brouillis. The second heat, the bonne chauffe or repasse, distils the brouillis again, and the distiller removes the heads at the start and the tails at the end to keep the heart. Heads or tails from either run can be added back to the next batch.

The deadline for distilling is 31 March following the harvest, and only the double distillation of wine from the latest crop may carry the name.

Six crus divide the region by soil, and Fine Champagne blends two of them.

BNIC lists six crus, first mapped from soil by the geologist Henri Coquand around 1860 and fixed by a decree of 13 January 1938. The table gives each cru and what BNIC says about its soil and spirit.

The six crus of Cognac: soil and character, as BNIC describes them

Grande Champagne

Soil and setting
Same soil type as Petite Champagne
Character
Floral, with vine flower and dried lime blossom; suited to long ageing in barrel

Petite Champagne

Soil and setting
Same soil type as Grande Champagne, with more oceanic influence
Character
Floral and fruity, lighter

Borderies

Soil and setting
Soil decalcified at the surface
Character
Very aromatic, with violet and iris; ages faster than the Champagnes

Fins Bois

Soil and setting
Thin clay-limestone in the north; Cretaceous and Tertiary soils in the south
Character
Round and fruity, with pressed-grape notes; ages faster than the Champagnes

Bons Bois

Soil and setting
Mixed Jurassic and Cretaceous formations, oceanic in the west and continental in the east
Character
Fruity, with a taste of terroir appearing

Bois Ordinaires

Soil and setting
The coast and two neighbouring islands, strongly Atlantic
Character
Fruity, with a marked taste of terroir

Fine Champagne is a complementary name for spirit drawn only from Grande Champagne, at least 50% of the blend, and Petite Champagne. A label that names a single cru means all of the spirit in the blend comes from that cru. Both are optional wording.

Cognac ages in oak, and the age on the label is the youngest spirit in the blend.

Cognac is aged without interruption and only in oak, and BNIC adds that the age on the label follows the youngest spirit blended in. Blending is traditional but, by BNIC’s account of the process, not covered by precise requirements in the specification. Long ageing brings the rancio character that BNIC describes as forest floor, mushrooms and walnut oil.

Water comes late. BNIC says the cellar master adds distilled water to reach the strength wanted, a step it calls dilution, and BNIC gives 40% ABV as the minimum for sale. Cognac has not been allowed to be sold for consumption under two years old since 18 March 1975, and it keeps the age it had at bottling.

VS, VSOP and XO name minimum ages, not exact ones.

The table follows BNIC’s own list of ageing categories, checked on 1 November 2026. Each age is a minimum for the youngest spirit in the blend, so a VSOP may hold much older spirit and a bottle never states a maximum. BNIC also lists tiers at three and five years.

Cognac ageing grades: minimum age of the youngest spirit and the other terms BNIC lists

VS

Minimum age
Two years
Other terms BNIC lists
3 Étoiles, Sélection, De Luxe, Very Special

VSOP

Minimum age
Four years
Other terms BNIC lists
Réserve, Vieux, Rare, Royal, Very Superior Old Pale

Napoléon

Minimum age
Six years
Other terms BNIC lists
Très Vieille Réserve, Très Vieux, Héritage, Très Rare, Excellence, Suprême

XO

Minimum age
Ten years
Other terms BNIC lists
Hors d’âge, Extra, Ancestral, Ancêtre, Or, Gold, Impérial, Extra Old

XXO

Minimum age
Fourteen years
Other terms BNIC lists
Extra Extra Old

A bottle labelled XO therefore holds spirit of at least ten years by that list, and six years is the Napoléon tier. Hors d’âge and Extra sit in the same ten-year tier.

Armagnac differs from cognac in still, place and blend.

BNIA reports that roughly 95% of Armagnac is run through a continuous copper still, where cognac uses batch double distillation. Armagnac comes from parts of the Gers, the Landes and Lot-et-Garonne. It also sells vintage bottles from a single harvest, and BNIA puts XO at a minimum of ten years, the same figure as cognac. Cognac is traditionally a blend of spirits of different ages and areas, though BNIC says blending is not required.

Cognac is drunk neat in a tulip, over ice, frozen or long.

BNIC suggests a tulip or stem glass for neat cognac: nose it first, then take a small sip. The brandy snifter page covers the balloon-shaped alternative. For ice, BNIC names VSOP as its example: the cold dulls the sense of strength and lets candied and dried fruit aromas out. Frozen cognac is stored at -18°C.

For long drinks, a BNIC educators’ note from 2020 suggests short pours of half an ounce to an ounce with a tonic or a dry grapefruit soda: a VSOP with an aromatic tonic, or a young VS with the soda.

Cognac is the base of the Sidecar, the Stinger and the Champs-Élysées.

The IBA specifies cognac at 50 ml in the Sidecar, with triple sec and lemon, 50 ml in the Stinger, with white crème de menthe, and 35 ml in the French Connection, with amaretto. None of the three names a grade.

Cognac is also what the Sazerac began with, per the IBA’s note, and one of the three equal measures in the Vieux Carré. The Champagne Cocktail uses 10 ml. Cognac also anchors the Champs-Élysées with green Chartreuse, lemon and sugar syrup, the Harvard with sweet vermouth and grenadine, the Japanese Cocktail with orgeat, the Metropole with dry vermouth and bitters, the Brandy Crusta and Between the Sheets.

The Brandy Alexander turns up in Valentine’s Day drinks and, with the Champagne Cocktail, in Christmas drinks and pairings.

Go further

Before you ask.

Frequently Asked Questions

What does XO mean on a cognac?

XO stands for Extra Old. BNIC’s list puts it at a minimum of ten years for the youngest spirit in the blend, alongside Hors d’âge and Extra. The bottle can hold older spirit, because the age on the label is a floor.

What is the difference between VS and VSOP cognac?

VS is the two-year tier, where BNIC lists Very Special among the terms. VSOP is the four-year tier, with Very Superior Old Pale among its terms. Both ages are floors for the youngest spirit, so either can hold older spirit. BNIC presents them as ageing categories.

What is the alcohol percentage of cognac?

At least 40% ABV, per BNIC, which states that cognac needs 40% to be sold. Distilled water is added late to reach the strength wanted. Brandy in general has a lower floor of 36% ABV under retained Regulation (EC) 110/2008.

What is cognac made from?

White grapes grown in the delimited Cognac area, mainly Ugni Blanc, which BNIC puts in over 98% of vineyards. The wine is distilled twice in batches and aged in oak. BNIC bans added sugar and sulphites during fermentation.

Is cognac a brandy?

Yes in everyday speech: grape brandy that carries a protected name. On the GOV.UK register the name sits in category 4, wine spirit, not category 5, brandy, of Annex II to the retained Regulation (EC) 110/2008. Bartenders and shoppers use brandy for both.

What is Fine Champagne cognac?

A complementary name that BNIC lists for cognac made only from Grande Champagne and Petite Champagne, with at least 50% Grande Champagne. It is optional wording on the label, and a single cru named on a label means all of the spirit comes from it.

Does cognac improve in the bottle?

No. BNIC says cognac keeps the age it had when bottled, because spirits do not evolve after bottling the way wine does. A bottle is as old as its youngest spirit was at filling, however long it has been on a shelf.

How does cognac differ from Armagnac?

The still is the main difference. BNIC describes two batch distillations for cognac, and BNIA reports that roughly 95% of Armagnac runs through a continuous copper still. The places differ too: the Charente for cognac, parts of the Gers, Landes and Lot-et-Garonne for Armagnac. Both name ten years for XO.

Sources.

Correct as of 1 November 2026.

  1. BNIC, “A Geographical Indication (ageing categories, labelling, history)” (Age tiers, 40% ABV minimum, cru and Fine Champagne wording, decree No. 2015-10, 1975 sale rule.).
  2. BNIC, “Production” (Winemaking, double distillation (chauffes), 31 March deadline, oak ageing, blending, dilution.).
  3. BNIC, “The various "crus" in the Cognac GI” (Six crus: soils and character; delimited area; decrees of 1 May 1909 and 13 January 1938.).
  4. BNIC, “Cognac grape varieties” (Ugni Blanc in over 98% of vineyards; other permitted varieties; wine strength 8 to 9% ABV.).
  5. BNIC, “How to taste Cognac?” (Tulip or stem glass for neat cognac; the steps of appearance, nose and palate.).
  6. BNIC, “Tasting Cognac” (Cognac on the rocks (VSOP named) and the effect of cold on aroma and perceived strength.).
  7. BNIC, “Cognac-Food Pairings” (Frozen cognac stored at -18 C; tasting tips.).
  8. BNIC, “Cognac Educators share 2020 trend predictions” (Educators suggest short pours (half to one ounce) with tonic or dry grapefruit soda.).
  9. GOV.UK (Defra), “Eau-de-vie de Cognac / Eau-de-vie des Charentes / Cognac: protected spirit drink name” (Category 4 wine spirit; EU registration 12 June 1989; UK scheme 31 December 2020.).
  10. BNIA (Armagnac), “Distillation and ageing” (Continuous copper still for about 95% of Armagnac; 52 to 72% ABV off the still; 400-litre oak pieces.).
  11. BNIA (Armagnac), “Hors d Age and XO” (XO: at least ten years; Hors d Age: more than ten years.).
  12. BNIA (Armagnac), “Grape varieties and Terroirs” (Armagnac vineyard across Gers, Landes and Lot-et-Garonne; ten authorised varieties.).
  13. legislation.gov.uk, “Regulation (EC) No 110/2008, Annex II” (Retained text, categories 4, 5, 6, 9, 10 and 32: strengths, maturation, sugar floors, compound terms.).
  14. IBA, “Sidecar” (Specification: 50 ml cognac, 20 ml triple sec, 20 ml fresh lemon juice; no grade named.).
  15. IBA, “Stinger” (Specification: 50 ml cognac, 20 ml white creme de menthe; no grade named.).
  16. IBA, “French Connection” (Specification: 35 ml cognac, 35 ml amaretto; no grade named.).
  17. IBA, “Sazerac” (Lists 50 ml cognac; note that rye replaced cognac after the American Civil War.).
  18. IBA, “Champagne Cocktail” (Specification: 10 ml cognac, 90 ml champagne, sugar cube, bitters.).

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